The photo shows a quart zip bag stuffed with 1,000 dry 1/8" wads and a small zip bag containing 100 dry 1/8" wads.|
Soaked in an organic lube, these organic wads work great for over powder wads as an alternative to wax cookies in .45 to .50 caliber pistols, Black Powder Cartridge Rifles and muzzleloaders. Will reduce and soften black powder fouling, especially when used in conjunction with organic bullet lube. Clean at the end of the day, not between shots.
They will also work with obsolete calibers such as .44-77, .43 Mauser, .44 Sharps, 43 Spanish, etc.
These wads are easier to install in cases than wax cookies. Just push inside the belled case neckseasy and fast.
Note: If you shoot a lubed conical or a lubed patched round ball in your .50 caliber muzzleloader, use a dry felt wad over the powder and under the bullet or patched ball. No lube will get in the powder. A 1/16" wad works just fine even if you leave the wad in place for a month or two.
These wads will also fit, with a little force, belled 44 pistol cases. If you shoot soft lead bullets in your 44 using smokeless or black powder, these wads will probably improve your groups. They did mineby 1/2 with pure lead bullets and 2400 powder in my .44 Magnum Ruger pistol. (See photos and load data below.)
Soak dry wads with your own lube and save money. See below for instructions on applying lube to wads. Or buy 50, 1/8" pure lard lubed or Junior Lubed wads stuffed inside one of my #151 handy plastic bottles. An 80¢ added value! NOTE: pure lard contains a trace of salt!
You may order via credit card through PayPal by clicking one of the icons. PayPal automatically adds USPS (snailmail) shipping. USA shipping only.
|Compare @ 10¢ each!||
|100% virgin wool.|
1/16" 100 packs @ $7.65
|1/16" 250 packs @ $12.75|
|1/16" 1,000 packs @ $37.95|
|1/8" 50 packs pure lard lubed wads in a hinged lid plastic bottle @ $5.00.||
|1/8" 50 packs Junior Lubed wads in a hinged lid plastic bottle @ $8.00.||
|Note! If you prefer the more dense recycled wads below let me know in|
the PayPal comments box.
|1/8" 100 packs @ $8.25||
|1/8" 250 packs @ $13.75||
|1/8" 1,000 packs @ $39.95|
Virgin wool + ~2%
|Recycled 1/8" 100 packs @ $6.95||
|Recycled 1/8" 250 packs @ $11.95||
|Recycled 1/8" 1,000 packs @ $35.95||
- Dirt cheap USPS shipping only. Shipping to the USA only
- No tax added.
- The PayPal page will say you are paying Deltablues.net which is my main web site.
If you prefer to pay via check or money order, send the proper amount plus postage and handling computed from the table below to:
190 Major Doughty Road
Tullos, Louisiana 71479
Is this cheap shipping or what?
|Amount of order||Add for S & H|
(USPS shipping only)
.01¢ $9.99|| $3.00|
|$10.00 $49.99|| $4.60|
Here's photos showing the dramatic difference in group sizes with and without 1/8" lubed wads in my .44 Magnum pistol.
Top photo = with 1/8" lubed wads
Bottom photo = exact same load but without wads.
The accuracy improvement using 1/8" lubed wads in my 45-70 with pure lead bullets and Pyrodex RS was just as dramatic.
Firearm = Ruger 7 1/2" Super Blackhawk .44 Magnum
Range = 25 yards, 5 shots
Average velocity = 1108 fps
Bullet = Lee TL430-240-SWC cast from pure lead
Bullet lube = Lee Liquid Alox
Load = 17.5 grs 2400 (measured with Lee 1.3 cc dipper)
Case = R P
Primer = CCI 300
Group with 1/8" lubed wads = 1 3/4"
Group without 1/8" lubed wads = 4 1/4"
Here's how to apply lube to dry wads:
Congratulations. You have just:
- I use a 1:1 ratio of beeswax:lard in hot weather or 100% lard in cold weather.
- If you can't find home-processed lard, buy it from me at this link.
If you buy lard in a supermarket, read both the "Contents" label and the "Nutrition Facts" label. The "Contents" label of store-bought lard will say it contains added salt, a weird something called "BHT," and even citric acidnone of which you want in your rifle or pistol bore. The "Nutrition Facts" label should say "Sodium 0mg 0%." No sodium means no salt.
NOTE: pure lard contains a trace of salt!
- Crisco® all-vegetable (and sodium free) shortening is a good substitute for lard. Do not use cooking oil as it is a liquid at room temperature. Your lube will be too soft.
- If you get your beeswax straight from the beekeeper as I do, you'll need to remove the impurities, i.e., bee parts and scorched honey. Melt your beeswax separately and allow it to sit for a minute. The impurities will slowly settle to the bottom of the container.
- For melting, use a microwave or a double-boiler. I use a microwave. In the microwave, use only microwave-safe containers. For melting beeswax, I use a pint canning jar. Do not use left-over mayonnaise jars as they are not designed for high temperatures.
- For mixing beeswax/lard/shortening, use a container with a built-in graduated scale. I use a glass, microwave safe, 1 quart mixing bowl with a red, painted-on scale = Anchor Hocking Company® and $4.96 at Wal-Mart.
- Pour your melted and settled beeswax into your mixing bowl. Read the scale and add the same amount of melted or semi-melted lard or shortening. For 1,000 dry 1/8" wads you'll need about 2 cups of lube mix. They will absorb about 3/4 cup.
- Re-microwave or re-heat the lube in the mixing bowl in order to completely mix the ingredients.
- Stir the lube in the mixing bowl. Dump in the dry wads and stir again.
- Important: re-heat or re-microwave the bowl now containing lube and partially soaked wads. I re-microwave for 1 minute. If you do not do that step, the cool interiors of the wads will contain no lube. Re-heating or re-microwaving heats the wads through and through and allows 100% lube absorption.
- Use a slotted spoon and remove the lubed wads and spread them out on newspaper.
Saved a bunch of money.
- Increased the accuracy of your cast bullet reloads.